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White Island in Camiguin beckons as you draws nearer; local dive master Alan Grado (BOTTOM) pats the laidback Green Sea Turtle residing in Canyons dive site.
CAMIGUIN IS ALMOST unreal as an island destination. It is pristine without remaining primitive, comfortable and convenient without being annoyingly com­mercial. Out of 7,107 islands in the Philippines, few compare to the abundance of natural attractions in this small piece of land lying off the coast of Misamis Oriental. All within an hour and a half's drive around the island are seven volca­noes, waterfalls, hot springs, cold springs, Spanish era relics, caves, and a pool of soda water. Just off the circumferential road is a sunken cemetery, and farther out still is a blinding strip of white sand above a gleaming turquoise sea. Below the water are reefs, celebrated as prime dive sites, one of which are canyon ridges that were formed from a past volcanic eruption and are now laden with aquatic life.
A home in the island
The Paras Beach Resort is one of the oldest resorts in Camiguin. It has the advantage of having right across it, beautiful White Island. A ten-minute banca (outrigger) ride from the shore of the Paras Resort brings you to this impressive sandbar that bulges out of Bohol Sea. Anyone looking for a beach in Camiguin ends up on this islet, since Camiguin itself has no comparable beach.
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A beautiful assortment of reef fish and corals dazzle you at the protected marine sanctuary on Mantigue Island. When you resurface, enjoy the fresh fish and shellfish caught and prepared by some of the 30 families who live on the island full time.
The Paras Resort serves as a good focal point for exploring the island. It is five minutes away from Johnny's Dive Shop, where you can chat up the resident American, who'll either offer you a dive or beer and pizza. Ten min­utes in the opposite direction is downtown Mambajao, where you can buy a kilo of lanzones or rent a motorcycle.
If you don't know where to go, consult the resort's driver/tour guide who'll gladly take you to every sight in the island.
A town in the province
Five towns make up Camiguin, the largest of which is Mambajao, the provincial capital and downtown sector. To get around Camiguin, there are motorcycles for rent in Mambajao's marketplace. If you're lucky enough, borrow a bicycle. The best way to explore Camiguin's coastal road is on two wheels. The rolling terrain cuts through tree-lined villages, seaside cliffs, forest patches, and breezy, ele­vated plains.
Almost anywhere along Camiguin's smooth, paved road, you'll find lanzones, the island's celebrated fruit. Pastel, a local pastry, is another popular delicacy. The Vjandep Bakeshop is the best place to score some pastel.
Though almost everything is cheap, it's a good idea to always have enough cash.
Born of fire
The island of Camiguin is presently 238 sq. km. "Presently," because it used to be smaller until the "Old Volcano" erupted in 1948, spitting out land and lava that eventually cooled to become an extension of the island. Hence, it is called an island "born of fire."
A much earlier eruption in 1871 had the opposite effect and created the Sunken Cemetery. This watery grave is marked by a tall white cross in the sea, a reminder of five hectares of burial site that have been completely washed over. The crumbling relics of the Old Church are a short distance away from the cemetery grounds, a one-story edifice enclosed in ramparts that have gone through centuries of decay.
Inland, there are numerable sites that will keep a nature lover busy for days. The Katibawasan Falls is eas­ily accessible and refreshing, while therapeutic Ardent Hot Springs is located further on. Concert or camping grounds surround the little steaming pool, and it is a favorite weekend venue for local bands. Sto. Nino Cold
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(FROM TOP, CLOCKWISE) The Paras Beach Resort, is right across stunning
White Island; Katibawasan Waterfall in Mambajao, just a few minute's
drive from the city center, is 73 meters long and cascades into a refreshing
pool; a rare Green Sea Turtle at the White Island dive site was so relaxed
that it had to be woken up for this photo; still at White Island dive site, a
pair of Painted Moray Eels stare curiously at the camera.
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A view of Mt. Hibok-Hibok with a halo of clouds taken from a boat just off White Island. Island hopping is a fantastic way to experience Camiguin.
Springs is another example of creeping commercialism, with the sounds of a karaoke machine filling an otherwise relaxing setting. Pamunglo Spring and Saai Cold Spring
are better, quieter options. There is also the Soda Water pool, where you can actually drink the water you that you swim in.
At the spot where mountain spring water meets the sea, lies a lagoon surrounded by eateries on stilts. It's a spot for both fishing and dining, as large cages full of fish are kept in the water.
Looming over all this history and magnificence is the Moro Watchtower. The surrounding area was formerly used as a fortress from Muslim marauders who pillaged Camiguin repeatedly to take its women. Women and chil­dren, who took refuge inside the fortifications, were kept safe. What remains of the fortress is a single watchtower, a reminder of the people's defense of their peaceful and blessed island life.
A steady flame
Camiguin is an island in stasis—progress and mod­ernization is making its inevitable way in. However, the community is in no rush to catch up with the frenetic pace of modernity. Newspapers from Manila are delivered at 4
p.m., and getting the paper entails knocking on a gate in a village and waiting for your paper to be arranged, while an elderly couple smiles at you from their rocking chairs. There are no fast food establishments on the island, but Jollibee (a Filipino food chain) comes once a year dur­ing Holy Week. Johnny of Johnny's Dive Shop relishes this lack of commercial development. Since moving to Camiguin three years ago, he has ridden his bike around the island everyday. After traveling around the world, he doesn't want to leave anymore. "Why should I?" he says. "It's a rare, perfect island."
** From the town of Balingoan in Cagayan de Oro, take the "roll on, roll off" or "ro-ro" boat to Camiguin Island, the ride costs approximately 85pesos ($ 1.51) and takes one hour. The "ro-ro" boats depart about 12 times a day, from 5:00 a. m. to 4:30pm.
HOW TO GET THERE »
PAL flies to Cagayan de Oro from Manila three times daily.
PAL PALakbayan Tour packages to Cagayan de Oro are
available.
For more information, please call PAL Reservations Office
or log on to www.philippineairlines.com
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