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I promised her a glorious holiday of calm clear waters, huge amounts of powder-fine sand, lots to do and sparkling company. (Since I couldn't find anyone else to come, she would have to settle for me.) Whatever your preference, whether high speed jet skiing, wind surfing, scuba diving or simply lying in the sand and making like driftwood, Boracay Island delivers, redefining the meaning of a "beach trip."
It takes a considerable amount of skill to say, "I hate the beach," convincingly. Despite my certitude on this matter, I never fail to get that look of puzzlement in response, the unspoken yet obvious reaction that demands, "What's there not to like?" Alas, no one else in the world understands my aversion towards the blistering heat, the sand in my shorts, and the unpleasant combination of sweat and salt water on the skin. These are the memories that urge me to finally perform that long-overdue chore—the one that will conveniently keep me imprisoned at home over the weekend—while family and friends rush off to the seaside.
My friend, Alex, on the other hand, matches my contempt of the seashore with her own euphoric, glassy-eyed enthusiasm. She'll lie in the sun all day, a smile permanently etched on her face, paying little attention to the fact that I'm in the shade fanning myself with a straw hat. She'll stay in the water for as long as she can, long after I'd gone back for a much-deserved shower and quick change into dry clothes. Much later, she'll show me the photographs of our trip, chattering and giggling as she reminds me of what was taking place as the pictures were being taken. (Most of the time I'll wonder why I wasn't in any of those pictures and figure that they took place while I was napping back at the cottage.)
It always breaks my heart to have to say no to Alex. Her dumbfounded expression and pretty pout are nearly enough to have me recant immediately, "On second thought, I think a trip to the beach would be great fun!" This time, however, it was my turn to ask. (A surprise for her birthday.) Not only would I take her to the beach, it would be the most beautiful one in the world. I promised her a glorious holiday of calm, clear waters, huge amounts of powder-fine sand, lots to do, great food and sparkling company. (Since I couldn't find anyone else to come, she would have to settle for me.)
To walk the entire length of Boracay's legendary "White Beach" in one try is no mean feat. The four-kilometer walk is effort enough even without all the distractions along the way. Many things had happened since I last set foot on the island, the most obvious of which were all the establishments—restaurants, resorts, inns, shops, aqua sports facilities—that sprouted up in the last three years. Cottages of bamboo and palm still lined the beach from the northern end to the southern, interrupted only by the occasional concrete—therefore, modern—building. Yet behind this initial row—some
The sun blesses Boracay Island with its gentle rays all year long, much to the delight of sunbathers, above.
Everything from wind surfs, to jet skis, to water skiing equipment are available for rent all over the island, right.
dotting the hills, some built along the single-lane main road—lie some new structures. All were still kept within the Department of Tourism's building specifications by being under 10 meters high and more than 25 meters from the beachfront, in an effort to preserve the island's native charm.
Electricity now pulsed through all the towns along this coast, coming from two main power lines from Panay Island. On the occasion of a power failure—much rarer these days—nearly every major resort had a backup generator. This was why (to my relief) nearly all resorts could now offer air conditioned rooms. Commerce led to the flourishing of yet more resorts, regardless of whether they happened to sit on beachfront property. The wide range of amenities to choose from, depending on your budget, were still available. At the northernmost point on the beach lay Friday's, one of Boracay's premier resorts. Nearby were also first-class beachfront resorts like Boracay Terraces and Pearl of the Pacific. A number of the newer inns, like Pink Patio and Jony's Place, are further inland, though only a few minutes' walk from the beach.
Alex, who had never been to Boracay before, seemed a bit overwhelmed. "What do we do first?" she asked.
Walking along the shore, I noticed the growing availability of a number of aqua-sports. I had my eye on the jet skis as they knifed through the blue waters, attracted by their speed and power. Small groups of wind surfers could also be seen. In the afternoons, as the tide ebbed, small motorboats would tow colorful para-sails into the sky, allowing adventurous visitors a spectacular view of the island from the air.
Alex, an avid scuba diver, wanted to go diving. This sport had become popular in a big way here. I counted no
Boracay's waters are warm and calm—the ideal location for teaching young children how to swim and be accustomed to the sea, above. A satellite dish sticks out from Boracay's peaceful tropical backdrop, right, linking the island via telephone and television to the rest of the world.
One of Boracay's popular night spots, Coco Manga's Moondog Bar, above, offers billiard tables, music and, of course, the infamous "Shooters." There is a thriving industry of selling postcards, T-shirts and other souvenir items on the island, left. Boracay's talipapa (flea market) also offers a wide range of locally produced swimsuits and beach wear at bargain prices.
jutting out of the roof—makes it one of Boracay's newest landmarks. The Boracay Tourist Center, established in January of 1994, offers air ticketing services, safety deposit boxes, foreign exchange and fax services. Two telephone companies have installed lines in Boracay, Pantelco and Crosstelco, linking the tiny island to the rest of the world. From our resort, we placed a phone call to Manila using direct dial access. Calling other countries, we were told, would be just as easy.
With the entry of satellite dishes, international channels like CNN and ESPN could be viewed from TV sets all over the island. I enjoyed the novelty of watching a football game at the lobby of Mila's Boracay Beach Resort for a few minutes before Alex pulled me away, saying something about wasting a beautiful day.
Having gone snorkeling, swimming and some reluctant sunbathing, I prevailed upon Alex to go bar hopping with me. In the evening, Boracay came to new life. Moondogs became the famous "Shooter Bar," named for its unique challenge. Hardy (or crazy) visitors were made to down 15 shooters made from various forms of alcohol: Scotch, vodka, rum, gin, tequila and combinations of the same. If you were "still standing" after that, your name would be engraved on a small plaque and added to a "hall of fame." Further down the road, the Bazura Bar would rock all night long, treating guests to dance music, a giant video screen, pool tables and a dance floor.
A short distance away were rows of restaurants, offering any kind of cuisine you could possibly desire. The El Toro restaurant at Mila's specialized in continental cuisine. Mango Ray's was well known for its grilled specialties. Chez de Paris offered authentic French cooking, wines and liquors. Zorba's specialty was Greek food. True Food restaurant cooked exotic Indian and Nepalese dishes. Eventually, we settled on Italian.
less than five diving schools, offering both diving certification courses and dive tours. As we walked by the Calypso diving school, a group of young divers was coming ashore from a dive boat. We settled on a boat tour, which have become a standard in a few resorts, offering a packaged lunch and snorkeling equipment. There was a surprising variety of marine life just a short distance off shore which we discovered as our two passenger bancas dropped anchor.
Progress had definitely come to Boracay. Motorized tricycles replaced the motorcycles and bicycles as the main means of transportation on the island, making it much easier to move around. Within the island, you could rent anything from a mountain bike, to a motorcycle, to a horse. Each resort was accessible from the main road via narrow back roads. This enabled us to cover much more of the island as we easily zipped from one end to the other.
Located in the center of White Beach is a low structure whose unique feature—a large satellite dish
Jony Salme was one of Boracay's first in the emerging age of new entrepreneurs. Salme, originally from Negros, moved to the island with his family as caretaker of the stylish Elizalde property. Later on, Salme opened one of the island's first refreshment stands and introduced a Boracay staple, the fruit shake. "Things are very different now," recalls Salme's wife, Josie. The peaceful days before the influx of tourists are now long gone.
Today, Jony's Place, a restaurant and inn, is still one of the best loved. Their banana and mango shakes, we discovered, are just as heavenly as ever.
Boracay would not be the popular island getaway it is today without some small sacrifices. Another proprietor, also one of Boracay's pioneers, recalls the early days before Boracay was "discovered" by the outside world. "Life was simple then," she reflects. "But you cannot stop progress."
Was it all really worth it ? As Alex and I walked along the sand one afternoon, we spent several minutes picking up discarded plastic bags and bottles on the beach. Alex's brow was in a permanent knot for the rest of the day. "How can they do this?" she muttered. "They're going to ruin everything."
Fortunately, something is being done. Ramona Ty, undersecretary of the Department of Tourism and director for planning and development of Boracay Island, reports a garbage management program underway.
"It's a very simple, low-tech solution," says Jose Belleza, managing director of Inter-Amalgamate Resource Corporation, the group contracted to set up the solid waste management system. Prior to the entry of the new system, all solid waste was burned, without the recyclable items being segregated from the biodegradables.
When raw, unprocessed garbage is burned, Belleza explains, it is simply broken down into chemical components that are more easily absorbed into the ground,
making contamination far more likely.
Currently, Boracay Island produces some 30 cubic meters of garbage daily—of which over 20 cubic meters were being burned indiscriminately. In the new system, recyclable components (plastic containers, bottles, etc.) can be separated and sold off. The remaining garbage either goes to the sanitary landfill or to the incinerator.
Education plays as much an important role as technology, Belleza stresses. The actual collection is still left to locals manning push carts and to resort operators. Some resort owners are joining in the effort. Kelly Boncan, owner of the Pink Patio, has begun by collecting mineral water bottles and sending them back to the mainland to be used as vinegar bottles. Without the awareness and cooperation of residents, however, the garbage problem could get far worse.
I could see her frustration begin to grow as Alex dropped another bottle into the trash can. It was the look of someone who had been given a glimpse of paradise, only to have that image sullied in the end. As we turned to leave, another plastic wrapper appeared in the sand underfoot. "These people should be ... should be ..." she trailed off.
"You want me to beat them up?" I asked. When we were kids, whenever my younger cousins would come home from school complaining about a class bully, I would always ask them the same question, "You want me to beat him up?" They always said no, of course. But my asking always seemed to make them feel better.
"Nah," Alex said finally. Her familiar, heart warming smile was working its way back to her face again. "What do we do now? Swim? Play pool? Go jet skiing? Biking? Horseback-riding?" On Boracay Island, I knew the possibilities would be endless.
"Let's watch TV," I said.
At sunrise, Boracay's beach expands dramatically as the tide gently ebbs and shimmers, top. There are no less than five dive schools on Boracay—small wonder, considering an abundance of marine life can be found just off shore, above.
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