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the rise of corregidor
Sixty years ago one of the most hard-fought battles of World War II took place during the retaking of Corregidor Island. Today, while the island is still pockmarked with the reminders of the struggle, this one time veritable fortress, as Randy Anderson discovers, offers visitors more than history.
Photographs by Kevin Hamdorf
T HE BIG GUNS on Corregidor are silent now; the only sounds heard are birds singing from deep in the forest, the rustle of wind­blown leaves, and the distant surf. But at the outbreak of World War II, huge coastal artillery on this small island roared to life against an overwhelming attack.
In December 1941, the Japanese had fallen upon Pearl Harbor and then moved against Filipino and U.S. forces in the Philippines. Corregidor, popularly known as "The Rock," was the last outpost to fall, surrendering in May 1942. Today, Corregidor is a virtual tropical destination only 45-minutes from the hustle and bustle of Manila. Visitors come not only for the rich history but to swim on beaches set against towering limestone formations, trek along jungle nature trails, ocean kayak, mountain bike, camp, fish, or just to stargaze in the clear night sky.
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Today, Corregidor is a virtual tropical destination only 45-minutes from the hustle and bustle of Manila. Visitors come not only for the rich history but to swim on beaches set against towering limestone formations, trek along jungle nature trails, ocean kayak, mountain bike, camp, fish, or just to stargaze in the clear night sky.
On a recent visit to Corregidor, I was pleased to meet a group of World War II veterans and relatives on the Sun Cruise ferry. After a scenic 26-mile ride across Manila Bay, we were met at the South Dock by our guide, Pablito Martinez, who in his 30 years of guiding tourists around the Rock, has acquired an almost encyclopedic knowledge of the island and its history.
As we boarded a 1930s style tram, called a tramvia, we could see a statue of General Douglas MacArthur at the bomb-twisted Lorcha Dock ruins. It was here, Martinez told us, that MacArthur boarded a PT boat to Australia and from there sent his famous message: "I shall return."
Our first stop was at an area called Topside, where the island towers 680 feet above the sea. Fellow visitor Duane Heisinger, whose father served on Corregidor, explained that, "the ghostly ruins of the Mile Long Barracks, the Headquarters Building and the other structures on Topside, with their twisted metal and shattered concrete, show the intensity of the rain of steel Corregidor endured as it became the heaviest bombed island in the Pacific war." Next, it was on to Battery Hearn to see the biggest guns on the island. When first test fired, every window on the island was shattered.
Nearby Battery Geary delivered hundreds of rounds against the enemy until a direct hit on its powder maga­zine threw the massive twelve-inch mortars hundreds of yards across the landscape.
War veteran Clemente Schmitt was a young artillery soldier at Battery Wheeler in 1941. Now 87, he stoops slightly; his hair snow white. But Schmitt is not frail. At Battery Wheeler, he scrambled without help up the steep steps to the massive guns. "Wheeler's 12-inch guns were on permanent mounts and were meant to lob shells outward to the South China Sea and, of course, the Japanese were attack­ing from the air. But we held our ground, kept our morale up and I will always be proud of that," said the old man.
In the final days before the surrender, Schmitt and the other soldiers of Wheeler could only watch as waves of enemy air­craft attacked the Rock.
Schmitt also tells the story of how he participated in a real life treasure tale. After MacArthur declared Manila an open city, the army brought tons of gold bars and sil­ver coins out to Corregidor for safekeeping. One night,
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chological warfare." And since the Japanese planes were now based on Clark Field or near Manila, they were able to remain over the tar­get for longer periods. For the men in Corregidor, it seemed as though they were living in the "center of a bull's eye."
Thus, with the daily bombings, life in Corregidor went under­ground. Everyone crammed into the Malinta Tunnel-a bombproof shel­ter created by the Americans who drove a shaft of reinforced concrete directly through the hill. The tunnel was around 835 feet long, 24 feet wide and 18 feet high, and was designed to house huge quantities of ammunition, food and supplies, and an underground hospital with a 1,000-bed capacity.
However, the tunnel complex was described as damp and poorly ventilated and, except for the hospital, it was not designed to quarter humans. Its occupants, numbering over four thousand (twice more than the tunnel could actually accommodate) complained of the little black flies that swarmed everywhere, and of the bedbugs that prickled the flesh. And although no shrapnel could get through, the tunnel dwellers felt suffocated, helpless and trapped being unable to fight back.
Food eventually became an immediate and critical problem to the command. Americans accustomed to "stateside chow" found them­selves on half-rations along with the Filipino soldiers. Soon, these rations were cut again (1,000 calories per day) and consisted of rice and fish, or what little meat could be found. Most of the meat came from the horses and mules of the cavalry. Occasionally monkeys and snakes supplemented the diet.
On May 6, 1942, their rations depleted, Gen. Jonathan M. Wainwright, the Commander of the Filipino-American forces, surren­dered Corregidor to the Japanese Imperial Army "with head bowed in sadness but not in shame."
Today, the veterans still remember those fateful twenty-seven days of being holed up in Malinta. Says one seventy-year old man, " The memory of those young men with whom you served will never end. We were a close team, brothers following orders in every move. Our association was seven days a week. I learned of their loved ones, of their dreams, their fears, their plans for the future, and often their inner thoughts. My hopes for them are aptly and succinctly inscribed in the Pacific War Memorial in Topside: Sleep, my sons, your duty done, for Freedom's light has come; sleep in the silent depths of the sea, or in your bed of hallowed sod, until you hear at dawn the low, clear reveille of God."
into the depths
'The bright moonlight by which we had wooed our sweethearts and wives carried the threat of night attack," said one veteran. "The beautiful sunrise and sunset of the tropics lost their attractiveness since enemy planes chose that time for attack. While typhoons, on the other hand, were eagerly awaited. We prayed for them to break up Japanese planes."
Such was the mental state of the thousands of Filipino and American forces that held out at Corregidor for twenty-seven days against the increasing Japanese bombings and dwindling supplies. For as long as Corregidor held, the Japanese could not enter Manila Bay, thus rendering their capture of Manila with no military rule. Corregidor was the largest of four islands at the mouth of Manila Bay, and has popularly been known as "the Rock." Indeed. The armament of Corregidor was formidable: Its seacoast defense alone consisted of 23 batteries and had a total of 45 coastal guns and mortars, ranging in caliber from three to twelve inches. The longest range cannon were two 12-inch guns with a horizontal range of 17, 000 yards.
But for all its strength, Corregidor was vulnerable to attack from the air. And the Japanese fully took advantage of it. Small groups of planes came in over Corregidor every two or three hours, and shelled the island at will. And sometimes, just bombing it "to carry out a psy-
when surrender seemed inevitable, Schmitt and a few other soldiers were ordered to carry large wooden crates into waiting small boats. Inside each crate were thousands of silver pesos. Repeatedly, the men returned to lug the heavy boxes to the boats. When the boats sat low in the water, Schmitt says, "We were told to board and they pulled out a short distance into the bay. There we tossed the crates overboard into the murky water." All told, the soldiers threw over 16 million silver pesos into the bay to prevent them from falling into enemy hands. The Japanese and Americans subsequently salvaged about half of the coins but several million dollars worth remains where Schmitt and his fellow soldiers cast them overboard. Standing on the highest part of Corregidor's west side is the Pacific Wax Memorial, built as a joint project of the Philippine and United States governments in 1968. At noon on May 6—the day Corregidor fell—a single shaft
of sunlight shines through the Memorial's specially designed dome to illuminate a circular marble altar. Located at the rear of the Pacific War Memorial is the Eternal Flame of Freedom, a large steel sculpture symbol­izing the triumph of human courage and freedom.
One of the most recent additions to Corregidor is the Filipino Heroes Memorial with fourteen murals depict­ing the heroic battles fought by Filipinos from the 15th century to modern times. A statue of a Filipino guerrilla stands nearby, and Japanese war veterans and their relatives regularly visit the Japanese Garden of Peace Park. The small park features a 40-foot stone Buddha, a Shinto Shrine, and other memorials dedicated to peace and reconciliation.
The morning passed quickly and at noon we stopped for a buffet lunch of Filipino favorites at the Malinta Hotel. The outdoor dining area has a breathtaking
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The Sound and Light Show vividly staged the wartime history of Corregidor with life-size mannequins and a dramatic soundtrack. At one point, the lights
flickered and chest-thumping thunder echoed down the length of the tunnel
simulating the noise of the bombardment. Just a few seconds of it makes one
marvel at how the defenders of The Rock withstood it for months.
panoramic view of Manila Bay and overlooks Malinta Hill. "In 1922 the Americans drove a shaft directly through the hill, creating Malinta Tunnel," our guide explained. "The tunnel was designed to house huge quan­tities of ammunition, food and supplies, and an under­ground 1,000 bed hospital. Malinta Tunnel also served as the seat of the Philippine Commonwealth Government under President Manuel Quezon."
After lunch, we entered the restored main tunnel to watch as the lights dimmed and the vividly staged Sound and Light Show recounted the wartime history of Corregidor with life-size mannequins and a dramatic soundtrack. At one point, the lights flickered and chest-thumping thunder echoed down the length of the tunnel simulating the noise of the bombardment. Just a few sec­onds of it makes one marvel at how the defenders of the Rock withstood it for months.
At 2:30pm the tour concluded and the day guests returned to the ferry for the trip back to Manila. I opted to stay on and checked into the Corregidor Hotel.
Corregidor is administered by the Corregidor Foundation, Inc., (CFI), which leases out the tourist facil­ities and maintains the memorial sites and gun emplace­ments. To learn more about this remarkable organization I met with CFI Island Manager Romilo Benadero, who gave me information on lesser known aspects of the island.
"The Japanese held Corregidor for three years. The retaking of the island began on January 23, 1945, when American planes dropped hundreds of tons of bombs on the Rock. Daily strikes continued through February 16, the day paratroopers swung down from the sky onto the island, and extended another week, until most of the remaining enemy had been rooted out of the ravines and caves. The surrender finally came on March 2, 1945."
One of the last enemy holdouts was at Monja Battery, on the southern end of the island. I decided to see Monja for myself and early the next morning, we took a banca boat from South Dock to the rocky beach at the foot of the towering cliffs of Wheeler Point.
The way up was steep and at times the trail drilled through the dense tropical forest in a sun-shielded green tunnel and at other times brought us out from under the canopy of trees, squinting in the brilliant sunlight. Pitcher plants, cadena de amor, ferns, and dozens of other plants lined our way with colors from subtle fuchsia to palm-frond yellow to deep emerald green.
Two hours later, tired, sweaty, but exhilarated, we reached the crest and took in the spectacular vista of Manila Bay, the Bataan Peninsula, and the coastline of Cavite. That evening I joined other guests for a Sunset Tour to Battery Grubbs on the western side of the island where we witnessed a spectacular sunset. The group then went on to a Night Tour of Malinta Tunnel and explored the tunnel's innermost laterals.
There is also an Island Boat Tour that circles Corregidor and the other outlying islands; a specialized camp training program; team building programs; and group camping areas.
Back in Manila I had a chance to reflect on all that I had seen and done on Corregidor. Certainly, I had enjoyed the clean, crisp air and the natural beauty of the island but I also had developed a deep sense of respect for
the men and women on all sides during those trying times sixty years ago.
The Corregidor Foundation, Inc. may be contacted at (632)525-3420 or (632) 831-8140, or through their website: www.tourism.gov.ph.
The fastest and most comfortable access from Manila is the Sun Cruises catamaran ferry that departs from the terminal near the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex along Roxas Blvd. Reservations can be made by calling (632) 831-8140. The cost is Php 1,330/person and includes roundtrip ferryboat transfers, terminal fees, guided island tour, and lunch. Website: www.corregidorphilippines.com.
If you're coming from Subic Bay, check with Waterline Banca Safaris, which operates day and overnight tours. Contact them at (6347) 232-1332. Log onto www.bancasafari.com