Ilocos Journey, Vigan, Pagudpud

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		G	ETTING INTO THE HEART of Ilocandia requires two major expe-	streets are lined with antiquated houses constantly listening to the music of horseshoes against 300-year-old roadways. The calesa, a horse-drawn carriage, is the only mode of transport allowed in the protected city, reminiscent of the era when the city was home to a mix of Spaniards and Ilocanos (residents of Ilocos).
	riences: a culturally rich visit to the Hispanic past of Vigan and a relaxing sojourn to the sprawling, , unspoiled white sands of Pagudpud. In between these two renowned destinations, the northern part of the Philippine archipelago
				Proclaimed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site six Decembers ago, Vigan's architectural structures remain intact and has suffered no serious damage during WWII, unlike its counterpart in Manila, the popular walled city, Intramuros.
				"Established in the 16th century, Vigan is the best preserved example of a planned Spanish Colonial town in Asia. Its architecture reflects the coming together of the cultural elements from elsewhere in the Philippines as well as from China and Europe, resulting in a culture and townscape without parallel any-

Visiting Vigan
Revisiting centuries past is imaginable as one enters the historic city of Vigan. Its narrow cobbled



where in the East and Southeast Asia," explained UNESCO about its choice to include Vigan in its roster of must-see and protected places.		foot or in a calesa. The main attraction is Crisologo Street, named after the Crisologo family—a clan of politicians foremost of whom was Mena Crisologo, elected as the first provincial governor in 1901. Crisologo Street is popular for its display of original and imitated Filipino antiques available for sale—whether Chinese classic cabinets or indigenous clay jars called burnay. Many Vigan shops sell the handwoven fluke cloth called abel, which comes in the form of towels, table runners and blankets lavished with ethnic Ilocano designs.
The city is under a heritage conservation and restoration program dubbed as the Vigan Master Plan, which is largely financed by the Spanish government. The city's conservation program is anchored on community participation, legislative protective measures and projects deemed feasible. Brochures, video films, commemorative stamps, radio programs, and regular publications such as newsletters and even coloring books for elementary pupils are regularly produced to fortify the sense of identity and pride of Biguenos (residents of Vigan). In fact, all new constructions in the city must conform with Vigan's colonial architecture.
		Through memorabilia, a number of museums narrate the lives of Vigan's great men. Such is the Crisologo Museum, which exhibits the Crisologo family tree and their dated furniture, clothes and vehicles. The Burgos Museum, meanwhile, is the birthplace of Fr. Jose Burgos, one of the three Filipino priests otherwise known as Gomburza who were executed by the Spaniards for their radical, anti-colonial preachings. The museum houses a repository of articles used by the Tinguians (the native tribe who are the city's first inhabitants) and details of the arrival of the Spanish conquerors and the Filipinos' difficult life during the Spanish occupation. A charming patio leads to a quiet, lush garden where Fr. Burgos most likely spent reflective afternoons contemplating the fate of his people.
The city's old Spanish structures paint an authentic picture of 17th-century European atmosphere. The oldest surviving colonial construction in the Philippines, Vigan's brick-laced pavements and remarkable edifices witnessed a number of revolts of Filipinos against Spanish colonizers, including those of Philippine heroes Diego Silang, who led the famous Ilocano revolt in 1762 against the collection of exorbitant tributes; and his wife Gabriela, who took over as leader of the uprising after her husband's assassination. Both husband and wife, fierce revolutionaries of the northern region, were proud Biguenos.
		Even the Vigan Provincial Jail is historic since this was the birthplace of the sixth Philippine President, Elpidio Quirino, whose father was then prison warden of the charmed city.
As tourist buses park in front of the city's St. Paul Cathedral, which was built in 1790, visitors may go to the heritage village filled with antique shops either on



	Breathtaking Pagudpud			rooms in resorts and hotels are encouraged to stay in the homes of residents for a reasonable fee.
	Farther up is one of the finest stretches of white sand beaches in the Philippines. Pagudpod is Ilocos Norte's pride and has earned the distinction of being the "Boracay of the North."
				The more adventurous backpackers can enjoy some 15-minute or so trek on even terrain towards hidden lagoons, creaks, streams and waterfalls that abound in the area. Some unspoiled caves and mountains nearby provide other venues to explore.
	The 10 to 12-hour drive from Manila is worth the wait upon beholding the country's longest contiguous white sand beach whose winds and waves are stronger than those of Boracay. Unlike the world-renowned island destination, a Pagudpud vacation is soothing and calming to the senses. There are no rowdy crowds and noisy nightspots. No wonder it has served as the location for quite a number of dramatic films to date such as the late Fernando Poe, Jr.'s action-adventure film "Panday" and dramatic films produced by award-winning director Carlitos Siguion-Reyna.
				En route to Laoag City, the capital of Ilocos Norte, visitors may stop over at the scenic town of Pasuquin, bounded by the sea on one side and the mountains on the other, to observe salt harvesting or to savor freshly-cooked lobsters. A short stop at Bangui View Deck provides a panoramic view of the South China Sea and nearby coastal towns, while Paraiso ni San Anton is a refreshing natural spring where some Ilocanos sell their famous bagoong (fish paste) and other delicacies.
	Among the outstanding activities that Pagudpud offers is wind and wave surfing. September is the best time to ride the giant waves. Another favorite water activity is snorkeling, as Pagudpud's clear blue waters provide a picture-perfect view of its coral reefs. While sunbathing, visitors can feast their eyes on the verdant hills and fertile valleys of Ilocos Norte's countryside, as the ocean and sky merge in varying hues of blue.			When wandering in Ilocos, tourists may try the Ilocano version of lechon kawali (crisp pork belly) called bagnet, or enjoy generous servings of vegetable dishes like dinengdeng (green leafy vegetables, okra and eggplant cooked with fresh or saltwater fish and bagoong) and pinakbet (bagoong-based vegetable stew of bitter melon or ampalaya, squash, eggplant and okra topped with bagnet) cooked the Ilocano way.
	Instead of comfortable resort accommodations provided along the shores of Saud and Burayoc, those who plan to stay overnight in Pagudpud may opt to go camping by the sands or to reside with the townspeople via the Department of Tourism's home-stay program. Under the government-initiated concept, visitors who cannot find			There are many other popular cultural sites in Ilocos, one of which is the Paoay Church and Bell Tower. Constructed for more than a century commencing in 1704, the Paoay Church exhibits the unique combination of Gothic, Baroque and Oriental architecture while the coral stone bell tower nearby served as an observation post


of rebel Katipuneros during the Spanish colonial period. The Paoay Church is also included in UNESCO's World Heritage list just like the Church of Santa Maria in Ilocos Sur, a massive church and convent situated alone on a hill, displaying Philippine-Hispanic architecture.
Other popular tourist spots which are perfect photo opportunities include: the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum in Batac, where people may view what is said to be the body of former President Ferdinand Marcos lying inside a glass case; the Juan Luna Museum in Badoc, a repository of memorabilia of the Luna family including a reproduction of the Spoliarium, the famous work of the country's acclaimed painter Juan Luna; and the Malacanang of the North, the official residence of the late President Marcos which overlooks the legendary Paoay Lake.
A visit to the naturally abundant and culturally rich Ilocos will prod any traveler to say, "Napintas ti Ilocos!" (Ilocos is beautiful.)

» GETTING THERE
Laoag is 477 kms away from Manila. On a day trip, driving time usually takes ten to eleven hours; a night trip would take about seven to eight hours. Meanwhile, it would take about nine hours if you're traveling from Manila to Vigan.
An 83-kilometer drive from Laoag to Vigan and a 78-kilometer drive from Laoag to Pagudpud usually take about two hours.
Bus companies like Maria De Leon, Farinas Transit, and Partas Transit Co. Autobus operate from Manila to Laoag. Philippine Rabbit Bus Line, Dominion Bus Corp. and Aniceto Transportation operate direct bus services from Vigan to Manila, Laoag and other parts of Luzon. A one-way fare from Manila to Laoag range from 750 pesos to 800 pesos.
For more information, contact the Laoag Department of Tourism Sub-office. Tel (6377) 772 0467.

THE PACKAGE
(May be sold only in the Philippines)
Ranges from 5,160 Philippine pesos to 7,160 Philippine pesos, inclusive of round trip Fiesta Class airfare (from and to Manila), two nights hotel accommodation with airport transfers and daily breakfast.
Extra night costs 475 Philippine pesos to 1,475 Philippine pesos.
HOTEL OPTIONS
Standard Class - Palazzo de Laoag
Deluxe Class - Fort Ilocandia Resort & Casino
OPTIONAL TOURS (rates per person/minimum of four persons staying at Fort Ilocandia)
Laoag City Tour for 685 Philippine pesos
Vigan City Tour for 790 Philippine pesos
Golf option for 1,320 Philippine pesos
Please call PAL Reservations or your travel agent for Swingaround Laoag Tour Packages originating outside the Philippines.

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