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THE SUN IS setting and every evening, it is witnessed by millions of people—but usually with no great emotion and little intensity of observation. But tonight, it seems different. Here in Bolinao, at the veranda of the Puerto del Sol resort, the sunset seems slower and more dramatic-it is as if it was created to be watched, sinking very slowly in the horizon. Bolinao provides for a mellow week­end retreat for both couples and families who want to get away from the maddening pace of Metro Manila. And more impor­tantly, Bolinao means sun, sea, and sand; a year-round mild climate, turquoise waters, coral reefs, and 16th-century architecture. Bolinao, of course, is no Boracay or Palawan. Tourism here is less commercial-a place where there's no cell phone reception, no bedside telephones, no high-speed Internet access. You won't find a Starbucks, a disco or a nightclub for miles; only a "nightlife" that usually means walking on the beach while stargazing. And therein lies its charms. Bolinao is an unhurried haven. A highly recommended accommoda­tion here is Puerto del Sol, its paved road­way embossed with a fiery sun giving an
instant feeling of welcome. Bright Mexican-inspired orange and yellow buildings set on the coastal edge, together with the lawns of red hibiscus and magenta bougainvillea, gives a sense of well-being and relaxation, where the pace of life is unhur­ried. But people don't come to Puerto del Sol to stay in their rooms. "There's plenty of activity for the energetic," says the resort's Swiss General Manager, Mr. Begre. "You can go swim­ming in our many pools, the kids can go horseback riding. There's snorkeling in Silake Island and diving in Santiago Island. We can even arrange picnics and packed lunch­es for you. There are also hammocks for the easy-going, and candlelit din­ners in stately cabanas. Or, for that uniquely Puerto del Sol experience, you can choose to dine on a balsa or raft, where you can have a romantic dinner as you slowly drift on the shallow sea." With its significance m the country's Spanish and mark, ne past, it's also worthwhile to visit the hun­dred-year-old grand white-towered American lighthouse as well as the Church of St. James Fortress, which was built by the Augustinians in 1609, housing several rare wooden statues. The antique altar is flanked by two
grinning Aztec visages presumably of Mexican influence and
was brought over by the Galleon Trade. The Enchanted Cave
is also worth a visit. Found deep inside one
of Bolinao's many coral caves is a body of
fresh water that is believed to heal diseases
including arthritis. Most who have gone
dipping into its clear waters described the
experience as a "defined spiritual, soulful
moment, that although it lasts only a
handful of minutes, it is enough to last a
lifetime."
But perhaps the moments that would be best cherished are the ones spent at the ten-kilometer stretch of white sand at Patar, just looking over the sea-a place that looks like Boracay before the bikini clad tourists came. Time flies as one sits on the beach or in one of the many open huts to watch the waves roll in and the coconut trees sway with the breeze. "Do nothing and the grass grows by itself," says the famous guru Bhagwan Rajneesh. "Sit silently doing nothing, just being in the utter silence of being." And here in Patar, we were able to do that. Taking a short
walk along this tranquil beach, the sea becomes churning and foamy. Huge rock formations stand in the spume and spray of the South China Sea, gushing out through nature-formed arches. Here, the sea is not gentle nor tender. It is a display of nature's raw power—awesome and mes­merizing. After a huge wave, some crevices become like instant small pools filled with small col­ored fishes, swimming and turn­ing in their new cramped envi­ronment.
After much seawater, we spent the afternoon in the town market buying rice cakes and souvenirs for friends back in the city. It's a perfect day indeed—a relaxing and rejuvenating whiff of simple plea­sures that provides a good balm for the soul.
>> For more information, log onto www.puertodelsol.com.ph
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