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WE WERE FOREWARNED. Our
guide told us that our voices should be low, lest we disturb the spirits. It was difficult to believe or accept before we hiked for a few hours into the deep forests of Pandan, Antique. We followed the
Bugang River to its source, to the headwater. But when we got
there, we all understood why it was sacred to the shamans and
the locals. Our group was even blessed with holy coconut oil
and a small charm pinned on our chests to protect us from
hexes. An old toothless white haired woman performed the
ceremony. She looked like, dare 1 say, a witch. She was a good
witch though, we were told. Then each of us clambered on a
motorcycle to get to our jump off point.
Pandan is a town in the northwest of Panay in the province
of Antic|iie just a few kilometers off its coast is the world famous
Boracay Island. It is a fast developing
eco-tourist spot, one that is steeped in
folklore              and              mysticism.
Accommodations may be hard to come
by, thus visitors are encouraged to find
lodgings in Boracay. Truly, we got the
best of both worlds by visiting a truly
pristine ecosystem and the award
winning service and facilities of one of
the best resorts in Boracay.
It was a long hike to the
headwater. But when we trot there.
there was a stillness that was difficult to articulate. Even the river was quiet here. The wind was softly rustling in the trees from afar. We were deep in the forest. The headwater as they call it, is a pool from which all the waters from the underground caves and forests meet. Its water is so clean and placid you could see the lush vegetation of plants beneath the surface. Our guide, Jude Sanchez, told me that the locals believe this to be a sacred place that spirits reside in. And the pool is something of a focal point or center for these beings. Once foreigners mistook it as an ordinary pool and dove in the clear, inviting waters. They were said to have been seized by bouts of fits a short time after. That's why it's best to have a local guide to accompany any visitor. And it's not just a superstitious belief either. Not bathing in the headwater ensures that the river is clean and clear. People and wildlife still rely on the river for their survival. The local freshwater shrimp or crawfish called patuyaw can still be caught from this winding river, and is said to taste more like lobster than shrimp.
We were rejuvenated from the difficult hike in a spiritual sense. Hiking back to the jump off point was much quicker. There we dove into the deeper and cooler waters, where the river flowed into a small dam. A diving board was a source of endless thrill
rips
Canadian
Local Government
Support Program
and            SMART
Communications,
Pandan is on the
right track of augmenting their income via eco tourism. So
when you visit Pandan, it does not only rejuvenate your senses,
you also support the local village's efforts at protecting wildlife
and encourage them to get into tourism the right way.
The one and half day nature trek costs PI, 500 per person. Inclusive of lunch. For more information: Call the Boracay Tourism Office at (036) 288 3629.
for the kids. It was a surprisingly short drive and boat ride back to our accommodations in Pink Patio in Boracay.
The next morning we were able to see the rest of the Bugang River. None of us expected it to be the most scenic banco, (wooden canoe) ride you can take. And once again there is that same serenity as you slowly row your way down the river, seeing hundred-year-old trees and where pina palms grow wild. This is nothing like the chaotic white water rafting trips on other rivers. Here you can focus on the sights slowly changing as you make your way through. After winding our way out of the deep forest, we discover the many fields that the river helps irrigate. Only the sounds of wild birds occasionally break the silence. At the midway point, we were treated to a local story telling session. It was about the legend of Malonggong, a crocodile and his love for a maiden. Malonggong was said to inhabit this very same river. After the story we come to where the river meets the sea. The waters here are neither fresh nor salty. Mangroves line the banks until the very mouth of the river where the seacoast beckons.
One of the most important stops in Pandan is the Bird Sanctuary of the Philippine Endemic Species Conservation Project. The sanctuary is a great way to see birds that are on the verge of extinction, from various kinds of hawks and raptors. But none of them are more endangered than the hornbill or dulungan. It's a great chance to teach kids about conservation and the need to protect flora and fauna.
There are only a few places more blessed in natural beauty than Pandan. More importantly, the local community has taken the initiative of developing the place's eco tourism potential. Through the assistance of the Department of Tourism, the
The town of Pandan is truly blessed with natural beauty. And the lessons of uncontrolled tourism where both the environment and wildlife are sacrificed in various parts of the country are too fresh to be forgotten. So how does the local community translate this into a sustainable eco tourism program? This is where SMART Communications and the Canadian sponsored Local Government Support Group (LGSP) comes into the picture.
Unlike most tourism destinations in the country. Pandan as a local community has decided to be involved in the design, marketing their area as an eco tourism destination. It's a viable source of income for them, as opposed to depleting the forests and hunting wildlife. True eco tourism makes them custodians of the environment.
SMART has committed itself in assisting genuine eco tourism efforts in a number of ways. They've used their own 5.000 strong employees to patronize these destinations. Sometimes sending a group or two for free as evaluators of these sites. They've also donated mobile phone units to these towns. These cell phones were provided for the purpose of assisting bookings and coordinating with the Department of Tourism and other government agencies.
The LGSP has encouraged eco tourism efforts in the Philippines, largely, seeing it as a means to combat poverty. Its aim is to have local communities that are financially self-sustaining. The LGSP does this by evaluating the involvement of all sectors and then funding its major needs.
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