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ride on the          
wild side
With its diverse and
eclectic options for
any adventurer,
Cagayan de Oro will
never run out of juice.
Lourd H. de Veyra
rides the tide
Photographs by Dakila
Angeles.
AS FAR BACK AS the 70s, Cagayan de Oro was already declared a highly urbanized city. Of course, the term 'highly urbanized' may not exactly bode well to thrill-seekers looking for life and excitement outside the metropolis, those wanting to escape from concrete jungles to real forests instead.
Mayor Vicente Emano appeared to be very apologetic about the seeming 'lack' of tourist destinations in Cagayan de Oro. Fact is, there is no reason why he should be. On the second day of our trip to this city, we went on a half-day white water rafting adventure, and as our fat yellow raft sailed out to the smooth, glassy Cagayan de Oro River, I realized how this single activity alone can detonate a tourism boom. And that's just a single entry on the list. True, Cagayan de Oro may be highly urbanized, one of the most progressive cities in the Philippines. But it is the kind of urbanization that at least strikes a balance between cosmopolitan lifestyle and languid rusticity—on one part you may have a cluster of malls and golf courses, but forest canopies, caves, and lush mountain slopes are never more than an hour away. Afternoon traffic can remind you of Manila's rush hour gridlocks because of its markedly narrow streets, but you can always take comfort in the fact that you don't have to drive long-haul if you want to go to beaches and the countryside.
Cagayan de Oro (land area: 488.8 sq. km.; population 530,000) is located in Northern Mindanao, bordered to the south by Bukidnon, Macajalar Bay to the north, and Misamis Oriental on the east and west. It is crucial as a major entry point to virtually the entire northern portion of the island. The city's terrain alternates between flat and hilly. The term 'Cagayan' in the proto-Philippine language means the 'place of the river'. Now it has the tagline "The City of Golden Friendship". By air, Cagayan de Oro is merely an hour away from Manila. You land on the Lumbia airport, which is located on a mountain plateau, but plans to build an international airport are already underway
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I t's also the city of lechon manok (roasted chicken) stalls and ingeniously designed tricycles called motorelas, reminiscent of the Thai tuk-tuk except this one can seat six with lots of legroom in the back to spare a la the jeepney. The drive from the airport to downtown is short and scenic, tumbling across sloping vast sloping terrains that could make any golf course developer salivate, offering the newly arrived visitor with a majestic panorama of the city.
Cagayan de Oro—one of the most peaceful and most progressive cities in the Philippines-is replete with all the conveniences of the modern metropolis: hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes, malls (including the major ones like SM, Robinson's, and Gaisano, with Ayala soon to construct its own), internet access, strong cellular phone signals, etc. It is home to Xavier University, an old institution run by the Jesuits, along with equally long-standing churches like St. Augustine. Newly developed residential/commercial areas like the Xavier Estates and Pueblo Estates attest to the city's rapid advancement to the future. Xavier Estates, for one, is a posh subdivision where you can find Mediterranean-style villas and a classy clubhouse with a neo-Asian flavor. On the edge of a hill is a row of Swiss-style chalets where you can rent a room. On the other side of the road is the 120-hectare Pueblo de Oro Township, the centerpiece of which is an 18-hole par 72-
championship golf course constructed by Alabama's Robert Trent Jones, one of the world's top designers; its hole # 4 said to be one of the world's most challenging.
A short drive from the city will take you to the historic Makahambus Cave, the site of a famous encounter on June 4, 1900 where Filipino troops defeated heavily armed American soldiers. Then just a stone's throw away is the Makahambus Gorge, a cavernous ravine into which one must descend 140 steps. You'll see dramatic limestone formations, huge stalactites that look like the roots of giant plants, and an entrance to an underground river. Entrance to the gorge is ringed with gemilina trees (whose wood is valued by furniture makers; a common sight in Northern Mindanao), and it's just on the side of the road.
No stay in Cagayan de Oro is complete without a trip to the Cagayan River to try out whitewater rafting—a thoroughly enjoyable activity that will take you through 12.3 snaking kilometers of pristine flowing waters, walled in by lush, virgin forests and colossal limestone cliffs. Starting point is the rustic district of Mambuaya. You will hurtle through 14 rapids, with intensities varying from gentle eddies to rodeo-worthy bumps that are sure adrenaline sparkers. One of the leading river guides is a group called the Cagayan de Oro Whitewater Rafting Adventure {Tel. [0917] 3863195), recently
During the Spanish period,
the city was known as Cagayan de Misamis and served as the capital of the seven districts of Mindanao and Sulu. It became known as Cagayan de Oro when rumors were heard that the banks of its river were abundant with gold nuggets. The natives insist on the truth of the rumors but the Spanish authorities never found gold in the riverbanks, but rich deposits of gold were found at areas near the river.
Perhaps the Kagay-anons'
most cherish myth about the origin of their city's name is that of a giant golden fish living in the depths of Cagayan de Oro's wide blue river. The fish everyone calls Oro supposedly carries the whole city on its back, during those very rare times when the city experiences an earthquake it is said that Oro shook the city in anger at the Kagay-anons' wrongdoings
ALL-DAY ADVENTURE. Do rafting, golfing and spelunking by day and chill out in city diner in the night. (FROM TOP) The Makahambus Cave, P. Joe's Diner, and Pueblo de Oro Club.
The irresistible pool of Malasag Eco-tourism Village.
You can always take comfort in the fact that you don't have to drive long-haul If you want to go to beaches and the countryside.
responsible for taking an excited President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo through two rapids. The group uses imported gear from Canada, and you don't even have to have previous boating/paddling experience or even know how to swim (life vests and helmets abound). Just passing through the scenic river trail alone is worth the 1,200 pesos fee, with breathtaking landscapes rarely associated with urban cities. Another group offers a 'pinoy' style of rafting using improvised rubber tire floats.
For a different lodging experience, stay in the Gardens of Malasag Eco-Tourism Village (Tel. [63 88] 855-6183), a kind of theme park/nature trail perched on a mountain slope carpeted with teak tree forests. With tribal houses filled with traditional artifacts and household implements, it showcases the ethnic culture of Northern Mindanao, particularly the Subanon, Talaandig, and Higaonon tribes. The Eco Village also houses an exotic orchidarium and huge gardens, plus an aviary, butterfly garden, and a deer habitat. For accommodations, you can stay at any one of their tastefully designed cottages that overlook picturesque Macajalar Bay.
Still one of the logistic virtues of the place is the proximity to Bukidnon, Mindanao's version of the Philippine's summer capital Baguio. It's a mere one-hour ride, ascending rolling
green hills dissected by zigzag roads lined with a joyous riot of trees, as if the people here have never heard of the chainsaw. Sometimes you can see vendors selling boiled corn and fruits by the roadside. The last week of February is always Kaamulan, Bukidnon's festival celebrating harvest, marked by agri-trade fairs (haven for orchid and fruit tree seedling-hunters) and street dancing with revelers garbed in traditional lumad (tribe) costumes. Bukidnon, of course, is more known to the commercial world as the home to Del Monte Corporation's massive pineapple plantation. Golf aficionados may stop and pay homage to one of the Philippines' oldest courses, the Del Monte Golf Club, designed in 1928 and remains one of the most difficult, although scenic. It sits on a plateau in the Mt. Kitanglad range 6,304 meters above sea level.
Toward the opposite end of Cagayan de Oro is Misamis Oriental, where Cagayanons go for quick weekend beach excursions to Opol. Drive further north through the scenic coastal road traversing Macajalar Bay and you can end up on a ferry boat to the volcanic island of Camiguin, a popular tourist destination known for its fine beaches, hot springs, and abundance of lanzones. What a gateway.
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