Philippine Travel Articles (courtesy of )

Homepage

OR MOST OF the time, the fish
I met on on the dive seemed unaware of my presence. The tropical fish displayed a splendid array of colors—copper studded with white, lime green with black stripes—and playfully glided inches from my bare skin. One of them, however, looked at me straight in the eye and held my gaze so steadily that I almost dropped my mouthpiece. I have come face to face with an exceptionally inquisitive fish. It could only have happened in El Nido, Palawan.
DAY I
A TROPICAL PARTY
El Nido is named after the nests (nido means nest in Spanish) which are built by the edible nest swiftlet (balin-sasayaw) into the cracks and crevices of Palawan's ubiqui­tous limestone cliffs. Climbers scale these cliffs to get the nests—for these are the main ingredient in the prized ori­ental bird's nest soup.
The resort lies 430 kilometers southwest of Manila. It took a mere one hour and 15 minutes by plane, and 40 minutes by outrigger to get there^ but it felt like it was a different world away. A veteran travel writer described this place, as "heaven on earth." When I first saw Miniloc resort—a cove whose mammoth limestone cliffs sur­rounds dazzling blue waters and cottages on stilts, it was clear that she wasn't exaggerating.
I checked into the "Cliff Cottage," which is set amidst coconut trees and against a massive cliff. The bed was big enough for three, and woven sawali (bamboo slats) covered the walls. Armed with the El Nido map and wildlife checklist that was thoughtfully left on my table, I set out for my first day with the itinerary prepared by the resort as part of their service.
My schedule began with a little acquaintance party at Miniloc's pier. From the walkway, I knelt down and neon colored parrotfish swarmed my outstretched hand for bits of bread. Even the jack fish—one meter long and grey-black in color—gathered here for their share of free food. You can use the free snorkeling gear, and swim among 200 kinds of marine species. Or better yet, avail of their introductory dive (again free, as part of the package) where a dive master will teach you the rudiments and will
guide you through your underwatet adventute (more seri­ous divers have 20 sites to choose from, ranging from 60 to 100 feet in depth). I was shown such entrancing sights like a clownfish snuggling in their anemone and a royal blue starfish peeking underneath a coral.
ISLAP
The rest of the day is a side trip to the small lagoon, which we dramatically entered by sliding the speedboat through a small opening in the limestone. Once in, seren­ity took on a physical dimension in the form of an emer­ald green pool and towering cliffs. Our guide Jeff, confid­ed to us that this was where he would kayak to when he needed to be alone.
Then we were whisked off to an island dinner in Panga (short for Pangulasian) with the dtamatic backdrop of the Palawan sunset to accompany us on our way thete. On the island itself, torches burned a soft orange glow, and there were tables laden with a buffet of chicken inasal (grilled chicken), lechon (roasted suckling pig) and fresh

A fantasy is fulfilled—swim­ming among the tropical
fish right outside our resort. (BOTTOM) This beautiful sunset is my reward for
waking up early and hiking up a mountain.
fruits. By a steadily burning bonfire, the volunteer staff from Miniloc resort performed the maglalatik (a war dance using coconut shells), tinikling (bamboo dance) and other dances to our delighted applause. As the day drew to an end, we trooped back to our rooms in Miniloc Island, and I tell you, there is nothing in the world like the memories of swirls of multi-hued fish and rhythmic splashing of waves against the boat, and a full stomach, to lull you to sweet slumber.
DAY 2
Our wake up call was 4 a.m. Thankfully, coffee and hot chocolate awaited us at the pier which warmed the early morning chill. Feeling very much like seaborne com­mandos (except for our un-athletic physical appearance) with our life-jackets and mega-watt flashlights, we sped five kilometers on a speedboat to Panga Island. Our
mission? To catch the sunrise from the Panga Island viewdeck. But first, we had to conquer the Panga trail.
EVERY BREATH YOU TAKE
"I-gasp!-need-gasp!-to-gasp!-rest!" For the first few steps of the mountain trail I jauntily walked right behind my companions—a film crew doing a Palawan special. Mid-way through the climb, my legs felt like jelly and I was breathing hard through my mouth. The trail itself wasn't so hard—a 2 kilometer trek that took us deep into the lush tropical forest of the mountain. But boy was it hard to keep up with my group's seemingly superhuman pace. Plenty of stops and one bottled water later, I stood on the view deck just as the sun tiptoed into the horizon. Mission accomplished. The sun lit the sky pale pink. The sea looked like a lavender sheet, and the nearby islands, were fluffy green pillows. I was seeing my bed everywhere, while the team happily clicked and shot away, at the hard-earned view.
BLUE LAGOON
After the morning hike, we were off to another lagoon. This one was just like the first— beautiful with still pools and sun-beaten stately cliffs—only on a bigger scale. And with nature at its most majestic, a little "Nature 101" was in order. It was provided by Mariglo Laririt, who has the very long title of "Planning and Development Community Concerns Manager" of El Nido. She said that Palawan, with its 1,700 islands, lays claim to a fourth of islands that make up the entire 7,107 islands that com­prise the entire Philippine archipelago. El Nido itself has 45. Its signature limestone cliffs were formed from coral

deposits over the course of 250 million years. Mariglo told us that plants that grew from the cracks and crevices of limestones, are called yucca—remarkable because these plants (which looked like miniature coconut trees) flour­ished despite the limited soil, occasional saltwater sprays, and exposure to harsh sunlight. What's the best way to experience it all? Aboard a kayak where you can steer your way through the lagoons at your own leisurely pace.
Talk about fantasy settings that become real. Have you ever seen the sea wear all shades of blue and green, the sand a stunning white, while cliffs stand as sentinels in the distance? And in the middle of it all, how about a table laden with food and shaded by huge white parasols? This is what a dream lunch is like at Entalula Island. We buried our feet deep into the cool, powdery sand below our table, and on top, we dug into grilled meat, fish, and fresh fruits. Entalula is the best spot to sunbathe, swim, and take pictures. With surroundings this breathtaking, all photos appear "postcard perfect." After lunch, we ventured to the nearby Snake Island. It is named after its long and softly curving sandbar that looks like a white python sunbathing on a blanket of blue, when viewed from the elevated deck.
HONEYMOON ISLE
Lagen, is Miniloc resort's more luxurious sister, and it was our lodging for the second night. Here, guests can relax in their swimming pool, recreation area, or in their bar with its fantastic view of the ocean. It has 35 rooms—some located near the front of the resort are set

Into a limestone crevice with no fears just smiles. (BOTTOM)
"Yes, I accept!" The dreamy sandbar provides the most
romantic setting for wedding proposals.
on stilts over water. The others, like mine, were tucked away in the back. My front porch looked out to sea, and my backyard was a forest—home to over a hundred species of birds, and more than 20 species of mammals. It was tempting to sink into my bed after a day full of activ­ity but dinner at a sandbar awaited. We boarded the trusty speedboat and stepped into a sand strip in the middle of the ocean. Light from the torches danced on the table where a gourmet dinner was served. It was no surprise to hear that this spot was a favorite for marriage proposals.
Who wouldn't be swept away with a dinner in a tiny sand­bar, surrounded by the sea, while water lapped gently on the nearby shores?
DAY 3 EGRETS AHOY!
At the crack of dawn the following day, we were in National Geographic mode as we set out to spy on Eastern Reef egrets. We passed thick mangroves as we neared the cluster of trees where the white, long-necked "wading" birds sat huddled. At first they looked like a pale gray mist that had settled on top of the trees. One by one, they flew off, noisy flecks of white against the subtle blue sky. The few that didn't fly off, waded near the shore and ducked their heads into the water, and caught their breakfast. Our companion, a frequent El Nido guest, said that the sight of the egrets landing was even more spectacular. We'll have to wait for the next time. Meanwhile, it was off to the bat cave.
CAVE OF WONDERS
Cudugnon Cave was a bit tricky getting into, we had to lie down and twist to enter its small opening. Inside, a tall hollow space, embraced by high stone walls, we were met by the resident bats. The next cave destination can

GEOGRAPHY.
El Nido is one of the most important sites for biolog­ical diversity in the country and is a protected area. It lies on the northernmost tip of Palawan Island, 430 kilometers southwest of Manila, and 238 kilometers northwest of Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan.
Population: 27,029
It is believed that Palawan was detached from main­land China some 40 million years ago and drifted southward. It linked up with the rest of the Philippines around 15 million years ago.
For more information on El Nido Resort, contact Ten
» Knots Development Corporation, 2/F Builders Centre Bldg., 170 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, 1229 Makati City Philippines; (+632) 894-5644; www.elnidoresorts.com
Other resorts in Palawan include Amanpulo on Pamalican Island, Amanresorts International Tel: (+65) 6883 2555; info@amanresorts com; reservations@amanresorts.com; www.amanresorts.com; Club Noah, Apulit Island, Taytay, Northeastern Palawan. Tel. (+632) 844-6688; info@clubnoah.com.ph; www.clubnoah.com.ph, Club Paradise Dimakya Island, Coron Palawan, Philippines; Tel. (+632) 324-1091; webmaster@palawan.con; www.clubparadisepalawan.com; Dos Palmas Resort Tel: (+632) 637-4226, (+632) 637-4236; info@dospalmas.com.ph; www.dospalmas.com.ph
El Nido Resorts is part of the PAL Swingaround Package. For more information please call PAL Reservations Office or log on to www.philippineairlines.com
Our buffet dinner at Pangalusian island was perfect: great food, and a lovely view.
only be entered by a boat. The cathedral cave on Pinasil Island had us craning our necks as the boat floated under­neath jagged arches that were tinged with light green and purple. As its name suggested, we felt that we were tread­ing on some holy, mystical ground. And all one can really say was, "Wow."
PSST...WANNA KNOW A SECRET?
Will El Nido ever run out of surprises? Apparently not. On the last leg of our three-day getaway, we hied off to Matinloc Island. We put on our snorkeling gear, and swam through a small space under a seemingly solid lime­stone wall. The waters carried us into an enclosure of lime­stone, with a small, shimmering pool. On one side lay a patch of cream sand. This is Secret Beach, as private and pristine as they come. So we took it easy, snorkeling and swimming before the afternoon flight back home. It was all ours—this pretty little spot where the sun drew ribbons of golden light on the sand beneath the water, and tropi­cal fish zoomed in and out of the corals.
Was there anything better than this? I have spent three glorious days cradled by nature in El Nido. There was absolutely nothing I could ask for. Well, except maybe, to extend my stay to one more day.
Homepage