I met on on the dive seemed
unaware of my presence. The tropical fish displayed a splendid array
of colors—copper studded with white, lime green with black
stripes—and playfully glided inches from my bare skin. One of them,
however, looked at me straight in the eye and held my gaze so
steadily that I almost dropped my mouthpiece. I have come face to
face with an exceptionally inquisitive fish. It could only have
happened in El Nido, Palawan.
DAY I
A TROPICAL PARTY
El Nido is named after the
nests (nido means nest in Spanish) which are built by the edible
nest swiftlet (balin-sasayaw) into the cracks and crevices of
Palawan's ubiquitous limestone cliffs. Climbers scale these
cliffs to get the nests—for these are the main ingredient in the
prized oriental bird's nest soup.
The resort lies 430
kilometers southwest of Manila. It took a mere one hour and 15
minutes by plane, and 40 minutes by outrigger to get there^ but it
felt like it was a different world away. A veteran travel writer
described this place, as "heaven on earth." When I first saw Miniloc
resort—a cove whose mammoth limestone cliffs surrounds dazzling
blue waters and cottages on stilts, it was clear that she wasn't
exaggerating.
I checked into the "Cliff
Cottage," which is set amidst coconut trees and against a massive
cliff. The bed was big enough for three, and woven sawali
(bamboo slats) covered the walls. Armed with the El Nido map and
wildlife checklist that was thoughtfully left on my table, I set out
for my first day with the itinerary prepared by the resort as part
of their service.
My schedule began with a
little acquaintance party at Miniloc's pier. From the walkway, I
knelt down and neon colored parrotfish swarmed my outstretched hand
for bits of bread. Even the jack fish—one meter long and grey-black
in color—gathered here for their share of free food. You can use the
free snorkeling gear, and swim among 200 kinds of marine species. Or
better yet, avail of their introductory dive (again free, as part of
the package) where a dive master will teach you the rudiments and
will