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ISLAND
text Tess Santos
photos Courtesy of Dos Palmas
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How sweet it is to do nothing and rest afterwards. - Anonymous
I F I DID NOTHING BUT WALK - or bike - the island, it would've been enough. The 20-hectare Arreceffi Island on the northeastern end of Honda Bay in central Palawan is rustic enough for a nature enthusiast and landscaped enough for a garden lover - both of which I profess to be, albeit on a very amateur level.
The front, or southwestern side of the island, is the main area of the Dos Palmas Arreceffi Island Resort, a slice of paradise if there ever was one. The Dos Palmas experience begins when guests dock at the three-tiered reception pagoda after an hour's boat ride (which, depending on the wind and the waves, can either be a lulling or an exciting ride) from the Sta. Lourdes wharf in Puerto Princesa (resort staff will pick you up at the airport).
As your boat approaches, you will hear a spirited welcome composed of gong, kulintang, guitar and maracas, and on the dock, an assortment of resort staff - from muscled men (the divers, if they're not out in the deep for the day) to smiling ladies - extend an island welcome.
Not too many guests discover or take advantage of the second and third levels of this true structure. The top perch offers a splendid, breezy, and very calming view of the mountains of central
Palawan, and this end of the bay, with waters in varying shades of blue and green. If it's forever you want to catch a glimpse of, try spending some time (but don't keep track of the time) just sitting up there, and life will begin to take on a slightly different tone.
The second level is a much more communal area, with matted sitting areas made comfortable by oversized pillows. At the risk of being sexist, this place is perfect for girl talk and gossip - or mahjong (the resort has three mahjong sets guests can borrow): What juicy secrets and embarrassing stories the wind carried off during our late night into early morning gab sessions there!
From the reception area, a 40-meter walkway, flanked on both sides by bay cottages on stilts, leads up to the resort proper. First there is a front office, behind which is the main dining area, bar (with one of th'; resorts two television sets) and souvenir shop with an interesting range of merchandise: check out the endangered species T-shirts). To the right is the fresh water swimming pool (the water is ionized and practically chlorine-free) and Jacuzzi, a children's play area and 21 duplex garden cottages, each with a loft and front porch.
To the left is the marine sports center, where water-based activities like diving (eight certified divers are on the staff; guests can
And in the late afternoon, the sun mellows and sets and in the evening under the stars, a stroll through the grounds is as refreshing for the mind as the sea breeze is for city-polluted lungs
get their open water diving certification here), snorkeling, kayaking, hobie catting, windsurfing, and fishing are booked and coordinated. Next to that are the recreation facilities: basketball, volleyball, tennis, billiards, ping pong, PlayStations (including dance revo), card tables, and another bar (with the second TV set; movies are shown every 9 PM). Also in the area are the conference facilities (for meetings of up to 250 people) and the marine research center.
What makes the island such a pleasant place are the gardens, thoughtfully and imaginatively landscaped, with attention to detail and respect for the island character. The coconut trees were there long before the island became a resort, and thankfully are left to lord it over the realm.
Chief of them all are the two 80-foot tall buri palms that give the resort its name, visible like twin spires as you approach the island. One of them has reached maturity and is fruiting now, leaf­less, while the other is still lush with its fan-like fronds. Locals say the former will die off in about a year, and although there are many other buri plants on the island, none nearly tall enough to take its prided place. What happens then to the resort's name? It remains, and the absent palm will probably become part of the lore of the island, adding to its exoticism.
A grounds staff of eight takes care of the over 150 varieties of plants on the island. Palawan cherry trees and fire trees abound, as do hibiscus, periwinkle, talisay, bougainvilla, beach pandan, and over ten varieties of palm, including red, blue, champagne, and royal palms. All of them are casually but carefully choreographed: the garden cottages, for example, are each landscaped differently, yet, are all similar in the feel of ordered lushness.
Pathways wind through the lay-out, skirting the beach front and also cutting between the cottages. And herein lies the resort's greatest charm. In the early morning, waves oh-so-gently caress the white sands and the sun softly illumines the still slumbering island. And in the late afternoon, the sun mellows and sets and in the evening under the stars, a stroll through the grounds is as refreshing for the mind as the sea breeze is for city-polluted lungs. Let your sandalled feet - you are instructed to be shod to avoid stepping on broken shells and jagged pebbles - take you where they will, for you will never get lost and will always end up back at the main pavillion, where chances are a sumptuous buffet awaits you in the main dining room, the open terrace or even the beach.
ISLAND PLEASURES: The good life (OPPOSITE) and the wild life.
The guides also helpfully
point out exotic birds
and fishes, but you have to be
quick of eye to get a look:
these wild creatures don't stop and pose.
Y OU CAN borrow a bike and wheel the pathways, too. You can inspect the buri palms up close, check the island's nursery (if Mang Buboy will let you in to his prized kingdom) or watch a spirited game of basketball among the staff (and even a guest or two). The island's sewage treatment plant is off limits for guests, but this is where the resort's waste water is treated for use to water all those lovely, healthy plants.
Although a firm believer in the do-nothing vacation, one activity even I wouldn't miss is kayaking around the island to see the mangroves that dominate the rear of the isalnd. Colorful one and two-person fiberglass kayaks are available for guests' use. Let me warn you that it is a vigorous 45-minute exercise - even with both of you paddling - but it is well worth the effort. The vegetation is primeval and lush, the birdlife exotic (over 80 species recorded), the serenity unmatched. Here is the ultimate get-away-from-it-all: one regular guest is reported to make the mangroves his private hideaway, spending entire mornings stretched out in a kayak with a book.
There is no danger of getting lost among the mangroves (unless you want to) or capsizing and sinking (life vests are required); a resort guide goes out with guests, most often his task is to extricate inexperienced paddlers and help them maneuver back into navigable waters. The guides also helpfully point out exotic birds and fishes, but you have to be quick of eye to get a look: these wild creatures don't stop and pose.
Don't forget, too, to have staff arrange a picnic lunch on one of the resort's extensions: thatched huts on little islets a short banca
ride away. The most popular is Puting Buhangin, where a barbecue pit will serve up fresh grilled seafood before you take a walk along the curving sandbar.
Dolphin-watching tours can be arranged (these go out early in the morning), as can trips to the St. Paul Underground River (this is a whole day excursion). Ask too about typical Palawan pasalubongs (souvenirs): the exotic lamayo (dried fish), honey (try the green honey if available), and cashew nuts (fried, roasted, or raw) are popular purchases. Lobsters, prawns, and other seafood are likewise good buys at a fraction of Manila market prices. Resort staff can facilitate purchase and packing.
Such are the stuff dream vacations are made of: a secluded island paradise, sun-sand-and-sea, pampering to our heart's delight and memories to last until your next vacation.
DOS PALMAS ARRECEFFI ISLAND RESORT
Manila Sales and Reservations Office
Unit 1005 Antel Global Corporate Center
Julia Vargas Ave., Ortigas Center
Pasig City 1605 Philippines
Tel nos: (632) 637-4226, 637-4236
Fax no: (632) 637-4230
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