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solaria's
hidden charms
Dive Solana in Anilao, Batangas is an underwater haven for tropical fish, sharks, barracuda and other exotic sea life. Roel Manipon wades in
f
OR DIVERS, day-trippers and other visitors,
Anilao—supposed to be a seemingly
nondescript barangav in the town of
Mabini—is becoming more popular than its
mother province Batangas, well-known for its fan knives,
strongly brewed coffee and a little volcano encircled by a lake. If
nothing else, Anilao is diving country. Sometimes, seasoned
divers would land on the Ninoy Aquino International Airport,
pack into vans, go straight to Anilao to dive, and then after a
few days, fly back home. To them, the rich coral reefs of Anilao
are their image of the Philippines and maybe a stretch of rice
fields, a handful of roadside fruit stalls and some unassuming
towns along the way if they happen to be awake during the trip.
One hundred and ten kilometers south of Manila, you can
reach Anilao in about three hours, give or take, depending on
the traffic. The usual route is through the South Superhighway,
The Meditteranean-Carribean inspired beachfront cottages.
which takes you to Batangas. After passing the towns of Sto. Tomas, Malvar and Lipa City, you can find yourself in Bauan, where there are scattered signs and arrows pointing to Anilao.
The trail becomes a little tricky as it slopes upward. You think you're headed into the mountains, only to glimpse the sea between gaps in the crags and straggly vegetation. Signboards of resorts and directions pop up at posts and corners. Then, the tousled cluster of houses becomes a conglomeration of resorts.
Anilao is a strip of resorts wedged between the mountains and the sea. I he shoreline of Anilao is not so impressive: sea cliffs, rocks and uneven, pebbly beaches. But these belie the varicolored wealth of coral gardens lying underneath. There are at least twenty resorts here of varying amenities and quality according to the guests' budget. One of the best resorts here is Dive Solana (Spanish for "sundeck"). A makeshift parking lot is the visitor's introduction to Dive Solana.
(clockwise) School of shimmering Glassfish and a view of Dive Solana's shorefront.
But like Anilao itself, the beauty is underneath. A rusty gate leads to a hundred or so steps down into the resort itself, two rows of charming cottages of light mustard color, thatched roofs and doors that open wide to the a view of the sea, suggestive of Meditterenean-Carribean inspiration. There are fourteen cottages, six of which are air-conditioned as preferred by Filipino guests, in the three and a half hectare area with a 200-meter shoreline.
Dive Solana is nestled in the Calumpang Peninsula in Anilao's only small beach area, allowing some recreational swimming along the shore. Beside Dive Solana is El Pinoy, owned by the now-exiled popular movie actor Gabby Concepcion who was one of the people responsible for popularizing Anilao, making it a chic place for an elite group of adventurers and making diving a hip pursuit.
But Dive Solana has its share of celebrity with acclaimed movie director Marilou Diaz-Abaya as one of the owners. Diaz-Abaya is often in Dive Solana if not directing a movie, diving, reading a book and painting. Her paintings of Anilao scenes, coral reefs and seashells bedeck every cottage.
Marilou shares ownership with two other sisters and a brother—Mary Ann, Mayette and Mike. The property was bought in 1994 from a Japanese resort owner and was supposed to be a rest house for the Diaz siblings to indulge in their passion for diving. At first, they allowed a cottage or two to be rented by acquaintances, but more people began asking until they were being edged out in accommodation. From a rudimentary four cottages, Mary Ann Diaz-Lee was responsible for designing and building more cottages, with materials hauled all the way from Manila or wood gleaned from nearby areas. Mayette Diaz-Belleza serves as corporate secretary, managing guest arrangements.
Belleza said that at first, guests were mostly seasoned divers and diving students, then whole families, and lately expatriates who had taken to diving as a hobby. Peak diving season seems to be whole year round except for July to August, when the west wind called habagat arrives, making diving precarious.
The popularity of Anilao as a diving site is due mainly because of its proximity to Metro Manila. Moreover, Anilao has a diverse marine life in numerous diving sites located mostly around the Sombrero, Maricaban and Caban Islands just offshore, five to fifteen minutes from Dive Solana.
Novice divers can dive near Dive Solana, around the Calumpang Peninsula, where there are shallow gardens, caves, fish feeding stations, rock formations, underwater hot springs,
slopes and reefs that harbor many species of nudibranchs, big basket sponges and fishes of different sizes and colors.
Also for novice divers and underwater photographers are Pulang Buli, Twin Rocks, Elmer's, Arthur's Rock, Koala, Eagle Point, The Cathedral and Sepok Wall. The best known of these is the Cathedral marine park sanctuary. With an average depth of nineteen meters and maximum of thirty meters, it possesses a variety of nudibranchs, hydroids, sea squirts and duster worms, aside from a variety of fishes.
For experienced ones, there are Bajura, Beatrice and Mainit Point. Other interesting sites include Bonito Island, a forty-minute boat ride away; where one can see rainbow runners, king jacks, turtles and rays; Nelson's Rock, deemed as the best spotting station for large fishes, sharks, schools of barracudas, tuna and jacks; Sombrero Island with its anemones, clownfish, occasional turtles and blue-ringed octopus; and Kirby's Rock, whose walls are dense with soft corals, crinoids, barrel sponges, white finger sponges, hydroids, sea stars, alabaster sea cucumbers, gorgonian sea fans and . segmented worms.
For more information about the dive sites in Anilao, one can consult Jack Jackson's book Dive Site of the Philippines, which lists and describes Anilao dive sites as well as other sites in the country.
Dive Solana can arrange boat rides and transfers to these dive sites. Dive gear can be rented from the resort's concessionaire Scuba World.
DIVE SOLANA Manila office is located at OS-7 Penthouse, Providence Building, 55 Annapolis Street, Greenhills, San Juan/ Tel [632] 721-2089/ Fax [632] 721-50421
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