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I FIRST HEARD OF Siargao in the year 2000 by way of a last minute writing assignment. I flew out knowing only two things about the island: 1) it was very far away from Manila and 2) it was (apparently) a famous surfing spot. Little did 1 realize that this one freelance gig would turn into a love affair with an island that keeps drawing me in. Since 2000 I've been back every year, making it my annual pilgrimage. And since then I've also come away each year with new discoveries—bits of information that deepen this ever-increasing fervor I feel for the island.
Welcome, adventurous spirit, to Siargao, where the dress code is half-naked and the vibe chills out. Most people make the long journey to this sleepy island with one thing in mind: excellent surfing. The season climaxes in late September when an annual competition is held at the now famed Cloud 9. But as IVe found out through the years, a visit to Siargao at nearly any time yields the same kind of exhilaration. While the summer months of March through May bring the same heat, come rainy season, the island is still relatively sunny with little rain and light offshore wind.
The cost of living here can be cheap if you know where to go. I've had breakfast for under 30 pesos and really good dinner for just a little over 50 pesos. The long seemingly endless stretch of hours can be filled with a variety of activities—or just spend it doing nothing. I've watched the surf competitions and taken outrigger boats to try my own luck at surfing the smaller breaks. (•* The surfs at General Luna, Siargao are n to surge from nine to 12 feet
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I've had entire SIARGAO
afternoons lying
in a hammock
reading whatever
book happened to
be nearby. I've
collected sunsets,
had quiet nights,
and conversely
enjoyed nights
dancing under the
stars at the local
discos
. The mornings are
peaceful, drinking coffee in the stillness of the day and hearing
the waves crashing from the visible Rock Island, seeing various
surfers either back from a really early morning session, ready
for breakfast, or late risers hurrying to catch the morning swell.
Every year it has become a must to visit Guyam Islet, a 27-kilometer stretch of white sand where small huts can be rented for picnics. Not far away is Daku Island, where mellow waves make for good surf. If island-hopping is on the agenda, don't miss Naked Island, where there's a good dose of sand, beach, seabirds, shells, and crabs.
We once took a motorbike ride to Magpupungko in the
town of Pilar where, at low tide, natural swimming pools filled
with corals formed. Pick a tide pool to jump into and just
swim around looking at the fish that have gotten trapped in the
high; nine out of 10 waves form into tubes as compared to Hawaii's six out of 10.
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WADE AND SEE. The beaches of Siargao Island and the nearby islets are littered with fine-looking seashells. (previous PAGE) There are also some still waters for a relaxing dip.
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TRAVEL NOTES >»
PANSUKIAN TROPICAL RESORT The road to this five-star resort is unpaved, lined on either side by lush vegetation and the occasional backyard pig sighting. Included in the resort's fees are all meals and use of hobie cats and kayaks. Island tours, deep-sea fishing, scuba lessons and offshore surfing (for an extra fee).
PATRICK'S ON THE BEACH Beachfront property in Gen. Luna, boasts of a white sand beach facing the Pacific Ocean and smaller islands including Guyam Islet. It offers bamboo cottages and tents in their beach camping ground. Tel [63920] 402-4356 / [63 918] 7257728 / website: www.patricksonthebeach.com / email: caribtour@hotmail.com
CLOUD NINE RESORT Named after the famous surf spot it fronts. Cloud Nine is a mix of natural surroundings and comfortable lodges. The rooms (deluxe and standard) are fan cooled and offer front row seats to the best surf break on the island. Treat yourself to the restaurant's many delicious dishes including our favorite—the heavenly pork chops.
Tel [63918] 797-0656 / website:
SAGANA BEACH RESORT Their cottages range from earth-friendly (down to the dry composting toilet) to fun-for-all (large enough for families with small children).
OCEAN 101 One of the newer resorts, Ocean 101 has comfortable rooms, grade A service and the nicest bathroom I have yet to come across in all my budget travels. The restaurant also doubles as an unofficial lounge where guests mingle and talk about their days. Be sure to order the Shaksuka for a culturally nutritious breakfast.
Tel [63919] 826-8837
CABUNTOG BEACH RESORT: Cabuntog's dormitory is a good option for those who wish to save their pesos for other extravagances without compromising comfort. And the cottages are a decent choice for those who want to live it up away from the surfing throng.
Tel [63919] 502-1662
SURF LESSONS? Siargao Island Surf Company, a community-based eco-tourist venture, offers basic and advance surfing lessons through its instructors who are mostly local surfing champions. Aside from this, it also rents out surfing, wind surfing, diving, kayaking, and fishing equipment. It can also take you on a one-day tour of Siargao Island focusing on your chosen activity-inland tour, island hopping, or mangrove forest kayaking.
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low tide. Meanwhile, the gentle Tak Tak Falls are in a neighboring town of Santa Monica.
On my list of must-sees are the island of Bucas Grande and Sohoton Cove, which are a full day's jaunt away from the mainland of Siargao. Swimming with the stingless jellyfish and snorkeling in the crystal-clear water gives you a chance to just bliss out. There is a cave that becomes easily accessible at low tide. You dive through and surface in an underground lagoon where the sun's rays rebound across the domed walls, a sight that leaves even the most jaded beach bum breathless.
The Del Carmen Swamps, home to one of the largest mangrove forests left in the country, offers a brief respite from the beach. If the sight is not enough, rent a kayak through the Siargao Island Surf Company or Pansukian Tropical Resort and paddle the smaller mangroves to get close with seafaring birds. If you want more, ask your resort if it can arrange deep-sea fishing, biking, shell collecting, and snorkeling tours for you. Recently scuba-diving opportunities have become available. Dive sites around the island are slowly being uncovered.
Then, there's the island's people—not just the local ones but fellow visitors, local surfers from all over the country, as well as foreign ones from as far as England and Hawaii, who have been touched by the island. For second-time visitors, coming back feels like a big reunion. To walk around and hear various calls of "when did you get in?" and "where are you staying?"; to see the kids who only last year were smaller than me and are now taller than I am—adds to the enchantment of being there.
Once you've been touched by Siargao's brand of magic, it's not hard to imagine how such a distant island has managed to capture your heart.
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(CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT) A local surfer retiring after the day; a beautiful Japanese beachgoer; and local kids in Dako Island. (OPPOSITE) Tor Johnson mastering the wave in Tuesday Rock and a street scene in Siargao.
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THE MARK OF A GOOD WAVE is that the lip, the
breaking part of the swell as it hits shallow water and hollows out, is powerful enough to break a surfboard in two pieces. Cloud Nine eats boards for breakfast. Fresh off the plane, I grabbed my brand new board, ran out the boardwalk, jumped into the surf, pulled into a tube, and immediately snapped my board in half on the first wave. Lamenting the waste of a personally hand-shaped magic board, not to mention the cool paint job, I rushed back up the pathway for my back-up. For some reason the old back-up beater stayed in one piece.
But board-eating Cloud Nine isn't the only show in town. For those who like it a bit more relaxed, there are other waves on Siargao Island -long rights perfect for high performance surfing, hollow lefts, everything a surfer could want, as long as there's swell. The vehicle of choice for surf sessions is the pump boat, the Philippine equivalent of mom's station wagon. Quick and shallow of draft to make it over the labyrinth of reefs, these frail craft have only a few inches of freeboard showing above water. A single light, narrow, sleek center hull has two bamboo outriggers lashed on with monofilament fishing line. Skimming over crystal clear lagoons on your way to a warm tropical wave sounds idyllic, and it would be if not for the ear-splitting din of a completely unmuffled gasoline engine blasting in the middle of the craft. If you are unlucky enough to be the one who has to sit behind the engine, you get the fumes blowing in your face as well as the noise.
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Surf Explorer
Nearly ten years ago, photographer John Callahan came here with pro surfers Taylor Knox and Evan Slater to look for surf. The area was all just jungle at the time, and they searched for waves for several days, chartering boats from the nearest town, or hiking in through clouds of mosquitoes in ridiculous heat. They found such perfect waves that Taylor and Evan nearly surfed themselves into a coma. John was literally forcing them back into the water to get more photos. At the end of a perfect day of surf, when they thought they were in heaven, they drank warm Coke and ate melted local candy bars called "Cloud 9". John labeled the photos of a certain perfect wave he found on that trip "Cloud 9". The tantalizing images dragged that wave into the limelight of the surfing world. Now the right-breaking reef at Tuason Point is probably the best-known Philippine surf spot.
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GENERAL LUNA is just a small town at the edge of the world. It is safe, clean and friendly, the laid-back kind of place where you could stop by for two or three days and not want to leave for a year. It is undeveloped and unspoiled, and that's the charm of it. BOAT TRIPS / Not to be missed is a full-day boat trip to Sohoton Lagoon. A magical place, overhung by jungle cliffs where you can swim into caves with bats, strange fishes, stalactites and rock oysters, weird corals, pitcher plants, cycads, and wild orchids. Take a flashlight and go during mid-day when the tide is low. The only entrance to the lagoon is a natural cave tunnel, hanging with stalactites and with strong currents. The cost is around 500 pesos per person, but it is well worth it.
Around GL, you should pop across the lagoon to Guyam, the perfect palm-fringed islet, Dako and its white sand beach, coral reefs and friendly villagers. Or visit Pansukian (Naked Island) a white sand spit with corals all around. A day trip to all three should cost around 600 pesos. If you are feeling brave or foolhardy, try rocky, jungled Hanoyoy, and see if all the talk about buried treasures and wok-woks (forest spirits) are really true. SOLO TRIP / You could rent a motorcycle in GL, for about 600 pesos/day, and get around the island yourself. There are few road signs, so take a compass. Otherwise, you could get around by the regular jeepneys, but they tend to arrive and depart at strange times. DIVING AND SNORKELING / There's plenty to see (fish, corals, sea snakes, etc., but no big sharks) snorkeling on the reefs around Guyam and Dako (you can just drift with the current along the drop-off). Around Pansukian, the coral reefs are great, (even better at nighttime) and you can explore reefs in front of Tuason Point (but please, not under the break itself), and in La Janosa and Mamon. A huge underwater cave with four to five separate entrances was recently discovered under the first rock islands in front of Tuason, and the Blue Cathedral just off Caridad, north of Pilar. Underwater visibility and topography are outstanding. FISHING / The sailfish and blue marlin season - when the big fish (sailfish up
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to 40kg, marlin up to 200kg) cruise the deep water only a mile or two out of GL - really hums from March to early May. But you could fish for coral trout, large snappers and other reef fish anytime, or get a local fisherman to take you out to the Payao, a floating fish attractor about five miles beyond Guyam, and troll for bolis (skipjack) or barilis (yellow fin tuna). You can catch tanguigue (Spanish mackerel), huge Pacific tuna, and morang (dolphinfish). In the lagoon, you can get bayo (Long Toms) - they're fun to catch but a little too bony to eat. SAILING / GL lagoon must be one of the safest, easiest, and most pleasurable places to sail anywhere in the world. See if you can persuade Pirate Pete or Visayan Andrew to take you for a fast sail and a few beers around the lagoon. You could try renting a paddle barota (15 minutes to Guyam if you ever get the hang of it).
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Cloud Nine Boys
Surfing at Cloud Nine has been around long enough now that a whole generation of Filipinos have begun to ride it, and like locals at any break, they ride it very well. Cloud Nine is basically a powerful tube ride, and although the visiting surfers from throughout the Philippines were excellent riders (one of them beat me in my heat), they couldn't come close to the specialized wave knowledge, timing, and guts of the local boys. A frequent sight is Aussie shaper and ripper Stuart Cadden who has long been a strong supporter of the local surfers, and many of them were on his boards. Some of the surfers such as Anthony Luebens from La Union in the North, went after long waves to rack up plenty of turns, but it really fell to the Cloud Nine locals to catch the scary, hollow "bombs" from deeper in the peak.
Four Aussie pros, Steve Clements, Drew Courtney, Kurt Nyholm, and Ty Arnold, showed up for the International Division of the contest. There were some worries among their relatives who'd seen more than their share of news coverage that extremists might kidnap them and hold
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them for ransom. Fortunately, like us, these guys had braved unfounded fears of hijacking and made an incredibly good call, considering the waves we all got. And despite the Philippine Factor, the contest had two competing contest directors, droves of dignitaries, packs of politicians, and a Hawaiian fashion show, but the waves were so good that none of that mattered and the contest was a huge success.
The Aussies who showed up for the event were far and away the best surfers around, so they basically assumed that they would take the first four places at the Siargao Cup without breaking a sweat. But as everyone knows, in a surf contest, "it ain't necessarily so". The Aussies were shocked when local boy Fernando Alipayo edged one of them out for fourth place in the final. To their discredit, the Aussies began to cry foul and favoritism. They had a point when they complained that the judging wasn't exactly world-class, but regardless of why "Yok-yok" (as he's known locally) won, it was the first time a local had ever placed in the international final, and thus a great boost for local surfing. Besides, the prize money will go a hell of a lot further in the Philippines.
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SWIMMING / Well, perhaps swimming in GL at low tide isn't the greatest, but try it at high tide or at down or dusk, when the water is freshest, or at night when the moon is out and the water is phosphorescent. You can get to Guyam in about half-an-hour if you are fit. Dako has the nearest very good beach for swimming at any tide. The swimming at Mamon is like being a virgin olive in a very dry martini. CAVING / There is a huge cave at Consuelo, with stalactites, stalagmites, rock crystals, piles of bat guano, a million bats, and even a huge python, but you'll have to be fit to get there. There's another at Malinao, on the way to Union. JUNGLES / Siargao is one of the few islands in the Philippines where tarsiers (small lemurs or bush babies, extinct almost anywhere else) are still common. See monitor lizards six feet long, hornbills, parrots, yellow and black lorikeets, kingfishers, and other birds nobody yet knows the names of. MOUNTAIN BIKING / Ask the PUB for a mountain bike rental, and try some cross-country biking. There is an International Mountain Bike Competition held in March every year, but to tell the truth, it's more like surfing than biking at that time of year, in the wet season. SITTING AROUND / Probably the most popular active sport in GL, it's remarkably relaxing, restorative, and healthful. Watch the fishermen at dawn, the clouds and the waves in the day, or the moon at night. It's up to you if you just sit and think, or just sit. SHOPPING / At Maridyl's, on the main street, you can get general supplies, fruits, vegetables, snack, etc. Rosita's probably has the best medicines. Marcha's (go down behind Maridyl's and turn one block left) stocks hardware, bamboo hats, stationery, and all sorts. There are many sari-sari stores scattered through the town, which sell odds & sods, fresh fruits in season, tuba (coconut wine), etc., and there are bakeries opposite the church and beside Rosita's which do hamburger rolls and fresh sweet breads. FOOD, DRINK, NIGHTLIFE / At Maridyl's or Lalay's in the main street, you can get cheap beer, Filipino food, and take in the street scene or another action video. Ruth has great chicken and pork barbecue, just between the two. Out at Cloud 9, you could try San Miguel's beach bar and restaurant, or 5 Lyns cafe in Katangnan, The Green Room or Jungle Reef and maybe Veneria's Karaoke/disco. In the evening, after nine, try the Melvinbo Disco, for sweaty group-bopping, or Seven-Eleven Karaoke/Restaurant (the
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restaurant isn't up to much, but the singers are great and you could even try a song yourself), in town. They are a bit primitive but good fun. Opposite Seven Eleven is El Nino Loco, a bit of an up-market bar. GETTING TO KNOW PEOPLE / GL people are very friendly and hospitable, if sometimes a little shy. Smile and you'll get a radiant smile back. The girls are very beautiful and very charming, but well-behaved. There is no hooker scene in GL, and nobody wants one.
Fishermen often picnic by the beach or on Guyam, and may invite you for a shot of Tanduay rhum, Kulafu medicinal wine, tuba or pa-oroi (strong nipa wine). Beware, they are more intoxicating than they seem. Try kinilaw, fresh fish steeped in vinegar, lemon juice, ginger, and onions - refreshing and delicious. They might offer you, dog stew, which is worth trying (once), litson (roast pig) or kambing (roast goat), worth trying anytime. Get a lad to climb a tree for fresh butong, coconut juice straight from the nut.
Try halo-halo, a great refresher with ice, condensed milk, fruit, and all sorts of other stuff. Poot-poot, featured as a delicious dish in all the guide books, is actually a tiny fish, salted, rotted down, and fermented, exclusive to GL, and in great demand throughout the Philippines, but perhaps not quite to your taste.
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Excerpt from www.siargao.com I E-mail: Siargaoisland@yahoo.com Yahoo Messenger ID: deetandotcom / Contact Person: Mr. Giovanni Dee Tan Tel. nos. 63(2) 365-2344, 63(2) 365-91051 Fax no. 63(2) 365-2345 Mobile: 63(917) 442-6913, 63(918) 922-1757
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(CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT) Cool dudes looking for a nice surf, local dude Yok-yok Alipayo, and Pansuklan Tropical Resort. (OPPOSITE) A pro surfer going for a ride.
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Surfing at Cloud Nine has been around long enough now that a whole generation of
Filipinos have begun to ride it, and like locals at any break, they ride it very well.
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Samar's New Locals
Carlos, Jerome, and Abdel, and a few of their friends from the island of Samar showed up at a welcome party for the Siargao Cup. Samar is in the central Philippines, a new and virtually unknown surf zone with some incredible waves. In the past years, John and I have done quite a bit of exploring in that part of the Philippines, and the resulting new spots have appeared in the major international surf magazines. In the past two years, locals like these guys from Samar have started surfing some of the remote areas we'd explored.
"We used your articles to find waves," they said. "We went to villages and asked fishermen if they had seen a boat full of American surfers."
They also searched for landmarks like rocks or points that they'd seen in the background of the photos. We accused them of using "counter intelligence" on us.
We joked that we couldn't tell them any more about the spots we'd found, because if we gave them all our priceless information, we'd "have to kill them." After a few minutes, though, it became clear that these
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guys already knew about nearly every wave we'd uncovered anyway. Armed with a few magazines, crucial local knowledge, and only a rough idea of where to go, they had spent days on butt-numbing bus seats, interminable boat rides, and long, sweltering hikes to find these places. They must have been stoked when they finally found some of these world-class breaks, "just like in the magazines."
Late that evening the boys finally pulled out some of their own photos. Grainy and distant, their snapshots still showed what appeared to be some excellent right points, and some obviously long hollow lefts.
"Where's that?!" I asked, amazed at a shot of what looked like a world wave.
"We can't tell you," they laughed, "or we'd have to kill you."
Maybe next time we go exploring, we'll be asking the local fishermen if they've seen a boatload of Filipino surfers.
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HOW TO GET THERE: Philippine Airlines flies daily to Cebu where you can take a ferry bound for Surigao and Davao. From Davao, hop on a bus bound for Surigao.
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 The Super Cat leaves CEBU to SURIGAO via Maasin in Leyte most mornings, for a four-hour trip arriving in Surigao after lunch and departing in the afternoon. Overnight boats leave Cebu in the evening, arriving in Surigao at early morning and returning the following night, except on Mondays.Buses come and go to Surigao from Davao (for Samal Island resorts), Lake Sebu, Mount Apo, etc. and on to General Santos for a quick 48-hour run to Manado in Sulawesi (Indonesia) and for Butuan and Cagayan de Oro (Camiguin Island).
Fast boats (Aska Queen, Fortune Jet, Tropical Queen) take about 1.5 to 2 hours at 100 pesos. Leave Surigao for Dapa on Siargao Island at about 5:30 AM, or just rest a bit and catch one of them on the second, noon run. In an emergency, or if one or all of them have technical problems, check out the pier at
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Bilang-bilang in Surigao for small lantsas (pumpboats/outriggers) sailing to Dapa.
STAYING IN GL/Close to the town center is Pisangan, turn right from across the bridge towards Cloud 9. At the other end of town are N&M Resort, Jade Star, and BRC, all a bit quieter and by the beach. Out at Cloud 9, there is Cloud 9 resort itself, the Green Room, the Jungle Reef, Ocean and Earth, etc.
COMMUNICATIONS / You probably came to get away from it all, but just in case you need to reach home, there is an international telephone and post office in the Municipal Hall. Loloy Torres will help you phone from his house after office hours and on weekends. The Cybernet Cafe at the Leomondee Hotel in Surigao is the best, but there are others to choose from if that's offline or crowded. As for banks, you'll have to go to Surigao, to the PCI Bank, RCBC, or Equitable Bank if you need cash. They all have ATM machines where you can use Visa, Cirrus, and local cards. There is a moneychanger opposite Visayan Marketing.
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Photographer JOHN CALLAHAN has traveled extensively in the- Pacific shooting surfing and scenic photographs. John is considered a legend in the country's surf circuit, especially in Siargao Island after' naming a superb swell from a chunky local choco bar. You can e-mail him at jscfoto@pacific.net.sg.
Hawaii-based writer-photographer TOR JOHNSON truly knows his surf, having lived in a surf country all his enviable life. In the past years, he and John have played Magellan exploring the Philippine coastline looking; for that perfect wave. You can e-mail him at toraloha@aol.com.
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WHY: Siargao has not succumbed to commercialization. That should be reason enough. Enjoy the tranquil splendor of the island sans souvenir shops and sidewalk peddlers. The Del Carmen Swamps, home to one of the largest mangrove forests left in the country, offers a brief respite from sunning yourself on the beach. Should that fail to satisfy your wanderlust, hire a boat for to take you on an island-hopping tour. Include the islands of Guyam, Daco, Lajanosa and Mamon on your route. All water have the color of shiny glass and photo-op scenery. A jaunt to Suhoton Cove in Bucas Grande Island, which shelters a lagoon accessible only during low tide, should round off the sight-seeing quite nicely.
YOU SHOULDN'T MISS: You shouldn't go all the way to Siargao without at least once paddling in. If you can't handle the massive swell at Cloud Nine, hire a boat to take you to Daco Island where the waves are mellow. Or walk down to Cemeteries and try your luck there. Just don't let the sight of tombstones faze you. Look for a local to give you some pointers. Another much simpler definitive activity is hiring a habal-habal, a public utility motorcycle, to take you around the towns. Don't forget to bring your camera.
WHERE TO STAY: Pansukian Beach Resort, Tel .(6332) 2341 282 /Website: www.geocities.com/pansukian /pansukian.html. The road to the 5-star resort is unpaved, lined on either side by lush vegetation and the occasional pig sighting. But past the ornate wooden gates is another world entirely. Included in the resort's fees are all meals and use of the water facilities (snorkeling, windsurfing, and kayaks) as well as the billiard and gaming room. Island tours, deep-sea fishing and scuba lessons are available for an extra fee. If you choose to shun all forms of activity for lazing around in the sun, the hammocks of Pansukian are your best bet.
Cloud Nine Resort, Tel (63918) 797 0656 / Website: www.geocities.com/thetropics/breakers/8633. Named after the famous surf spot it fronts, Cloud Nine is a mix of natural surroundings and comfortable lodges. The rooms (deluxe and standard) are fan cooled and offer front row seats to the best surf break on the island. Watch surfers launch themselves against nature while you sip coffee and treat yourself to the restaurant's many delicious dishes (we suggest ordering the pork chops, which are divine). And should the urge to surf come upon you, all you need to do is pick up your stick and walk down to the tower. In the evenings you can watch the latest surf video or a recent Hollywood movie on the restaurant's video set-up or play a game of billiards.
Cabuntog Beach Resort, Tel (63919) 502 1662. A short habal-habal ride away from Cloud Nine, the resort offers dormitory style lodging as well as air-conditioned cottages. Basic but clean and cozy, the dormitory ranges from two to four people per room with a common bathroom (showers and toilet cubicles) while the more pricey cottages have their own bathrooms and private porches.
Cabuntog's dormitory is a good option for those who wish to save their pesos for other extravagances without compromising comfort. And the cottages are a decent choice for those who want to live it up away from the surfing throng. - kage gozun
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